*Re-post* The Fog Lightening: The Beginning...and a request for help?

"RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars" (rallydarkstrike) 07/28/2018 at 07:10 • Filed to: Fog Lights, Oppohelp

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***Re-post for the morning crowd! ***

Well, !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! ! A replacement lower bumper grill insert with holes for the factory fog lights, and the new fog lights and wiring harness (pardon the mess in our basement hallway)! :)

I didn’t have time to do the full install today, but I did take it upon myself to get the interior wiring harness installed today.

The kit comes with a full wiring harness including factory-style interior switch, relay, and 3 wire kits - an engine bay harness for the lights, an interior harness for the switch, and a ‘extension cable’ to connect the two through the firewall.

I needed some tools first....sockets, pliers and trim removal tools:

The fog light switch in the MC generation Accent is to the left of the steering wheel in a circular pod - the top slot is for front fogs and on European cars, the lower half is the rear fog light. Mine has an extra hole from where I was going to install my own switch before I found out the kit came with a factory-style one:

I installed the switch where the factory switch would go and ran the wiring over to steal power from the back of one of my 12v sockets. You can see the switch location on the left and the location of the 12v sockets down and on the right:

The interior harness has three leads - ‘ignition’ which is power to the switch, ground, and the lead that runs through the firewall to the relay in the engine bay harness. I used the supplied ‘wire clip’ to connect the wiring harness to the power line on the back of the 12v socket, which is only powered when the key is on Accessory or Ignition:

I grounded the ground lead to a bolt for the drivers’ side inner kick panel that bolts it to a seemingly non-painted structure that supports the dash. I assumed this was grounded because the fuse panel is further over and mounted to the same dash support structure but has a ground lead that runs to the aforementioned dash structure as mentioned in the Service Manual:

I didn’t install the actual lights, engine bay harness or the ‘extension wire’ (i.e. the one that runs through the firewall to connect the interior harness to the engine bay harness) today, but once I had the interior harness installed I assumed that I could test it by turning on the switch and having it light up to actually make sure it worked....except that nothing happens...

I’ve yet to get my multimeter and actually TEST to make sure the structure I grounded the harness to is ACTUALLY grounded itself, but considering it has that ground from the fuse panel further over, I assume it is grounded....so it COULD be that my ground isn’t actually grounded? It COULD be the switch is dead on arrival? I’m thinking it’s most likely that the clip-wire-tap thing the kit came with didn’t quite take....I know they can be terrible, but I didn’t really want to have to cut and solder because there are NO plugs anywhere near our driveway unless I run a million extension cables...

What do you think Oppo? I work tomorrow, but I am hoping to look into it on Sunday and see if I can sort it out. :P

Longtime Lurker > RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars 07/27/2018 at 20:53

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My bet is on that Scotch-Lock(the red clip) being the culprit.

RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars > Longtime Lurker 07/28/2018 at 07:07

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That’s my bet as well - probably won’t have time today, but hoping to pop things back apart tomorrow and see what I can see.

pip bip - choose Corrour > RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars 07/28/2018 at 07:22

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still need to plug a relay in though don’t you?

there should be a mention on the fusebox lid

RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars > pip bip - choose Corrour 07/28/2018 at 07:35

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The engine bay harness I have yet to plug in has a relay already integrated, yes. Why, do you think maybe somehow without that portion of the harness connected the switch won’t get power?

My understanding is that all this power and ground does on the interior end is supply power to the switch and therefore the relay to click it on to give power to the lights (which will get THEIR power direct from the battery when the relay clicks on once I get the lights installed). As far as I understand it, if there was no issue with the wiring I already installed, the switch should at least light up when I turn it on to show it’s getting power from the circuit I already created, it’s just not sending power to anywhere (like a relay) beca use I don’t have it connected yet...?

pip bip - choose Corrour > RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars 07/28/2018 at 07:47

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note -  i’m not mechanically/electrically minded

but i would’ve thought it won’t work till it’s all connected.

gogmorgo - rowing gears in a Grand Cherokee > RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars 07/28/2018 at 10:49

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Does factory fog light wiring not exist in your car? In most vehicles it’s a matter of popping the switch block off plate out, fishing out the plugs, then either just plugging them in up front, or tapping them into whatever harness.

I use a small butane torch for soldering. Just seems to work better. Of course you'll want to be careful with it inside your dash.

RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars > gogmorgo - rowing gears in a Grand Cherokee 07/28/2018 at 11:03

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The non-fog and factory fog cars had different harnesses in the sense that everything was the same, but the fog cars DID have the fog harness and the non-fog cars didn’t, so there are none for me to fish out and use that are already in the harness and disused.

Long story short, if you want to install factory fogs on a car that didn’t originally have them, you have to make or install a harness as well.